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CITRUS—MORPH—BASIC MORPH—CO DOM—CO DOMINANT
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C,M,B,CITRUS,MORPH,BASIC MORPH,CO DOM,CO
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si komo,chloe ardella raisya putri kamarsyah,prianka putri,aldhika budi
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1
herpetologi
2
herpetologi
3
herpetologi
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herpetologi
5
herpetologi
6
amelanistic-amelanistik-amel-amelanism-1
amelanistic-amelanistik-amel-amelanism-2
metode
penelitian herpetofauna-1
metode
penelitian herpetofauna-2
metode
penelitian herpetofauna-3
metode
penelitian herpetofauna-4
L :
leucistic-part 1
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leucistic-part 2
L :
leucistic-part 3
L :
leucistic-part 4
M : MELANISM-MELANISTIC-MELANIN-MELANISTIK--part 1
M :
MELANISM-MELANISTIC-MELANIN-MELANISTIK--part 2
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C,M,B, : CITRUS,MORPH,BASIC MORPH,CO DOM,CO DOMINANT-part1
C,M,B, : CITRUS,MORPH,BASIC MORPH,CO DOM,CO DOMINANT-part2
C,M,B, : CITRUS,MORPH,BASIC MORPH,CO DOM,CO DOMINANT-part 1a
C,M,B, : CITRUS,MORPH,BASIC MORPH,CO DOM,CO DOMINANT-part 1b
http://chloepediasemarang.blogspot.co.id/2017/08/chloepedia-labelpenelusurantaghasilresu_31.html
http://chloepediasemarang.blogspot.co.id/2017/08/chloepedia-labelpenelusurantaghasilresu_31.html
C,M,B, : CITRUS,MORPH,BASIC MORPH,CO DOM,CO DOMINANT-part 2a
C,M,B, : CITRUS,MORPH,BASIC MORPH,CO DOM,CO DOMINANT-part 2b
C,M,B, : CITRUS,MORPH,BASIC MORPH,CO DOM,CO DOMINANT-part 3a
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C,M,B, : CITRUS,MORPH,BASIC MORPH,CO DOM,CO DOMINANT-part 3c
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Base ball python morph list
I have been doing lots of research lately and have
come up with a list of base morphs and what I have at this point found them to
be whether recessive, dom, or codom. I was wondering if someone could help me
know what is used as a lightener and what are color morphs and what are pattern
morphs. Also any things that you feel that they do on a regular basis when
combined with others. Any that you feel I am missing or that are in the wrong
category or not base morphs.
Recessive
Albino
Autumn Gloss
Axanthic
Black Axanthic
Blue Ghost
Burgundy
Candy
Caramel Albino
Clown
Crider Ball
Desert Ghost
Genetic Banded aka Tiger
Genetic Stripe
Ghost (Hypo)
Goldfinger
Green Ghost
Lavender Albino
Orange Crush
Patternless
Peach
Piebald
Puzzle
Rio
Tangerine Ultramel
Tri-Stripe
Ultramelanistic
Dominant
Avalanche
Black Belly
Calico aka Sugar
Congo
Coral Glow
Desert Ball
Dot
Emberball
Epic
Fader
Ghi Ball
Het Puma
Josie Ball
Leopard Ball
Marble
Napalm
Nova
Orange Dream
Orange Glow
Philistine
Pinstripe
Reaper
Shatter
Spider
Sulfur
Super Reduced Pattern
Tiger
Codominant
Banana Ball
Black Head
Black Lace
Black Opal
Black Pastel
Butter
Cajun
Champagne
Chocolate
Cinnamon
Citrus Pastel
Disco
Enchi
Fire
Garcia
Goblin
Granite
Green Pastel aka Lace Black Back
Het Red Axanthinc
Hidden Gene Woma
Huffman
Lace
Lemonback
Lesser Platinum
Lilly
Lori
Mahogany
Mocha
Mojave
Mystic
Orange Belly
Paintball
Pastel
Phantom
Red Stripe
Russo Line het leucistic
Sable
Sentinel
Speckled
Special
Specter (Het Super Stripe)
Spot Nose
Sunset Ball
Toffee
Vanilla
White Diamond
Woma
Yellow Belly
Recessive
Albino
Autumn Gloss
Axanthic
Black Axanthic
Blue Ghost
Burgundy
Candy
Caramel Albino
Clown
Crider Ball
Desert Ghost
Genetic Banded aka Tiger
Genetic Stripe
Ghost (Hypo)
Goldfinger
Green Ghost
Lavender Albino
Orange Crush
Patternless
Peach
Piebald
Puzzle
Rio
Tangerine Ultramel
Tri-Stripe
Ultramelanistic
Dominant
Avalanche
Black Belly
Calico aka Sugar
Congo
Coral Glow
Desert Ball
Dot
Emberball
Epic
Fader
Ghi Ball
Het Puma
Josie Ball
Leopard Ball
Marble
Napalm
Nova
Orange Dream
Orange Glow
Philistine
Pinstripe
Reaper
Shatter
Spider
Sulfur
Super Reduced Pattern
Tiger
Codominant
Banana Ball
Black Head
Black Lace
Black Opal
Black Pastel
Butter
Cajun
Champagne
Chocolate
Cinnamon
Citrus Pastel
Disco
Enchi
Fire
Garcia
Goblin
Granite
Green Pastel aka Lace Black Back
Het Red Axanthinc
Hidden Gene Woma
Huffman
Lace
Lemonback
Lesser Platinum
Lilly
Lori
Mahogany
Mocha
Mojave
Mystic
Orange Belly
Paintball
Pastel
Phantom
Red Stripe
Russo Line het leucistic
Sable
Sentinel
Speckled
Special
Specter (Het Super Stripe)
Spot Nose
Sunset Ball
Toffee
Vanilla
White Diamond
Woma
Yellow Belly
my god ! its friday
night and I am too tired to try ! interesting list though
Tangerine Ultramel is a
made up name, they are called Ultramels - as I understand Casey Lazik coined
the phrase to highlight the colour of a hatchling he is selling.
Toffee is recessive
also.
Could add lemon pastel
and group the pastels and hypos/ghosts together.
Splatter - proven
dominant by Chris Jones.
Daisy - dominant/codom?
Thanks Chris hopefully
co-dom
Ghi ball and sulfer are
co-doms not dom as there are supers. A few on your dom list are still yet
unproven weather they are dom or co-dom, i think you need a section for the
unproven. Good idear to do a list though, good work
Do you have any info on
the Daisy? I have not heard of that one and can not find any information on
them. Always like to hear of different morphs
......................................
PRACTICAL PRINCIPLES FOR BALL PYTHON BREEDERS
As a ball python breeder I constantly evaluate the best ways to
get a maximum return on my investment. This makes me no different than
any other business person, regardless of the choice of profession. I
endeavor to be pragmatic when it comes to expected profitability and I have
come to believe that there many ways to do this snake breeding thing
right. Alternately, there at least as many ways to do it wrong.
What’s right and what’s wrong can vary based on circumstance and is often a
matter of perspective. If the end result is little more than baby snakes
poking their heads out of eggs then I know I am right to say that what’s right
and what’s wrong is chock full of opinion and personal preference. I know
this because I have seen too many people be successful using too many
variations of what I consider “right”. Right, in this instance, is
grey. What’s
right for me right now may not be so in a year and it may never be right for
you. From feeding to breeding to incubating I have seen a wide range of
choices that all lead to success. What works for you is what you should
do. But therein lies the rub; how to figure out what works without making
a lot of costly mistakes along the way. We learn from each other but we
don’t have to completely emulate each other’s techniques and processes.
Ball python breeding is more flexible than many people realize and the grey
areas provide a good bit of wiggle room. Having written that I believe
there are certain best practices and principles that, when carefully considered
and/or implemented, can put you more on the side of doing things right. I
don’t intend the advice I am about to offer to be anything other than
suggestions for your consideration. I have violated almost all of my own
best practices in the past and have little doubt I will do it again in the
future. I endeavor to remain keenly aware of the violations when I make
them and I remain fully conscious of the risks and accept, in advance, the
consequences.
So here
they are: my ball python breeder best principles and practices:
Simple Recessive: “Hoes Before Bros”
It is a
simple and unalterable fact that female ball pythons take longer to reach sexual
maturity than males. Most females won’t breed until their third or fourth
winter while males can potentially be ready inside of a year, 18 months almost
without fail. If, in the same buying season, you acquire both male and
female hatchlings for a project your male will be ready to breed not less than
a full year before the female. The only guaranteed thing you can do
during that time is watch the value of the morph continue to fall. When
examining the original price paid you will see that you acquired and paid for
the male at least a full year in advance of when you should have. You
should have purchased only females in year one and waited at least a full year
before buying the male. Doing this makes it more likely that you will
have both of them reaching sexual maturity at the same time. This
minimizes your losses from depreciation. So the next time you are looking
to start a simple recessive project, buy your females first; pick up the males
a year later.
This
best practice may not appear to make sense if you already have other females
that will be ready when the male is a year old (give or take). But that
all-too-common scenario really just illustrates the point. The females
you already have that will be paired with the male were acquired (or born) long
before the male, which is exactly what I am suggesting should be done with
simple recessives.
Dominant/Co-Dominant: “Bros Before Hoes”
If you
are going to visually see the product of your breeding in the first generation
of offspring (e.g. dominant/co-dominant genes) it is a better decision to
invest in males first and turn your attention to the acquisition of females in
the following year(s). Dominant and Co-Dominant (incomplete dominant)
prices fall fast. In order to have a chance at seeing a return in a
reasonable time period you have to work for very fast turnaround. Many
males can be ready to breed in less than a year and, assuming they perform, you
will see the product of your efforts in the next breeding season. This
allows you to begin recouping your investment after only one season of
depreciation. If you are using females to get yourself into a particular
co-dom project you will have to patiently suffer through 2-3 seasons of
depreciation before seeing the first dollars in return. This is too
painful for most people to bear and is not an ideal use of investment capital.
A
corollary to this principle is that the eventual investment in co-dom/dominant
females is required. It is only when both the male and female are
genetically special that we see the really exceptional designer morph
advancement. It should be abundantly obvious that true genetic progress
only comes when both male and female are contributing genetic awesomeness to
the mix. Four, five & six gene snakes don’t typically get made
because all of the genetic mutations come from one side of the family; both mom
and dad have to be sufficiently morphed-up in order to make really morphed-up
kids. It’s all about genetic synergy.
Pair Genetically Greater Boys with Genetically Lower Girls
…But Never the Other Way Around
(Put Another Way: Never Breed a More Expensive Female to a Less Expensive
Male)
It is
reasonable to buy a male dominant/co-dom morph and use it to make more of the
same (e.g. breed it to a normal female). However, you should never do
that with a female. When you acquire female dominant/co-dominant morphs
it should be with the full intent of breeding it to a male whose genetics are
different (and typically of greater financial value than hers). It is
economically effective to acquire a male dominant/co-dominant animal and breed
it to a genetically lower female. The opposite is never true. Do
not acquire a dominant/co-dominant female and breed it to a genetically lower
male. Please note that ‘genetically lower’ refers to the financial value
of the morph. For example:
§ It is
sane to buy a pastel male and breed it to a normal female. It is insane
to by a normal male and breed it to a pastel female.
§ It is
sane to buy a champagne male and breed it to a pastel female. It is
insane to buy a champagne female and breed it to a pastel male.
§ It is
sane to buy a silver surfer male and breed it to a ghost female. It is
insane to buy a silver surfer female and breed it to a ghost male.
§ It is
sane to buy a male albino and breed it to a het albino female. It is
insane to buy an albino female and breed it to a het albino male. Please
note that your sanity is also in question if you breed an albino male to an
albino female. At the very least breed female albinos with a male who is
albino plus something else (albino spider, albino pinstripe, albino black
pastel, etc.).
§ Do not
buy a pastel female with plans of breeding her to a pastel male (even though
you can make super pastels). It is no longer true that breeders intentionally
produce super pastel ball pythons; they are almost always the product of missed
opportunity in a different pairing (e.g. lemon blast x pastel lesser can
produce super pastels but it is not what the breeder was trying for). A
female pastel bred to any other co-dom morph will, in the best case, always
produce babies that are worth more money than a super pastel.
I
almost gave myself an aneurysm this breeding season when I pulled a clutch of
eggs from a bumble bee female and realized I had bred her to a pinstripe
male. This is a classic example of wasted female potential. My
decision to breed that particular pair of animals was rooted in my lack of
males to go with all of my females. I have a lot of 3, 4 and 5-gene males
…but I have a lot more females. Rather than breed her to nothing or try
to stretch a male too thinly I, at some point, decided that the long odds of
making spinner blasts was better than nothing at all. The problem is that
the odds of making spiders and pinstripes is much greater and that negates the
value of such a great female. Don’t make mistakes like that.
Diversity is a Detriment
Quality never goes out of style. This does
not require much elaboration. But quantity…
Quantity of production of a particular morph is a
benefit. This is obviously true from the simple “more is better”
perspective. But quantity of production is also important for a breeder
because the acquisition of many of your morphs will come out of your own
production and it is only after the needs of your own collection are satisfied
that you can begin toeasily entertain the notion of selling the results
of your production. You will forever be your own best customer and that
is not a financially good thing. If, because of limited breeding stock,
you only produce a tiny handful of the morph you are shooting for you will be
hard-pressed to sell when you finally hit on the odds. How many times
have you heard yourself say, “Yeah, I’ve got to keep this.”? This could
mean that your ability to sell your productive efforts is pushed back by a full
breeding season and that push has a tangible financial value.
If you only produce a single clutch of clowns how can you easily
sell them when you don’t have all of the clowns you need for yourself? If
you sell them without first satisfying the needs of your own collection you are
effectively decreasing the worth of your collection (while increasing the
quality of your competitor’s collection). Ball python breeding groups are
always depreciating in value and, as such, must continuously be upgraded to
keep them even with the market. If the diversity of morphs in your
collection is out of proportion to its size you will probably produce
comparatively few of each kind of morph. The desire to keep them will be
powerful and each animal you keep is less money in your pocket this
season. If you focus less on diversity and more on quantity you will be
more likely to produce an abundance of a particular morph. The decision
to sell becomes easier and all you need to do is decide which animal(s) to keep rather than if there is an animal to keep.
It is
not as exciting to keep a larger number of the same morph but it is definitely
more profitable. On the other hand, a diverse collection is more fun to
look at but, since you are more likely to keep the best of your production, you
are more of a hobbyist than a businessperson (and I’m not really writing for
the hobbyist at the moment).
This
principle also has a few corollary’s:
1.
When you produce a particular morph in quantity you have more to
choose from when selecting quality. You get to pick the very best of what
you produce to keep for yourself rather than having to hold on to whatever you
get.
2.
There can be a lot of variation in feeding response with ball
pythons. If you have several of the same morph you can hold them for a
few weeks/months to see which are the best feeders. You should always
keep the best-looking, best-feeding animals for yourself. And no, this is
not an ethical issue. A negative-minded person will read this and say
that I wrote, “keep the good stuff for yourself, sell the crappy stuff to your
customers.” I’m not suggesting that at all. Bluntly: I
suggest that you keep the very best for yourself, sell the remaining excellent
product to your customers and, if you have anything of “low” quality
(unattractive, poor feeding response, etc.), sell it to the wholesalers.
And yes, that should serve as a warning to people who buy the cheapest snake
they can find (which is usually from the wholesalers). Trust me on this
one; the great deal you just got on that snake may not be as great a deal as
you think. As is often the case in life, you get what you pay for.
Nobody
is going to tend to your collection but you. If you don’t take steps to
make sure it is the best is can be …who will? If you give your friend’s
first pick they will take the very best of what you produce and expect the
lowest price. If you put the very best of what you produce up for the
world to buy, it will sell and people will applaud you for your quality.
But at what cost? If you build your own collection from the leftovers how
long can your collection remain superior? Hopefully that question is
rhetorical. Never feel bad about keeping the best for yourself. It
is your responsibility to do so. Altruism has no place anywhere on this
planet, including the ball python business.
Refinement is a Religion
As you
read this article the financial value of your ball python collection is
falling. The only way to keep it even or, dare I say, growing in value is
to constantly increase its genetic quality. If you have single-gene males
now you need to upgrade them to multi-gene males for next year. If you
have a large number of normal female breeders you need to upgrade them to
pastels, black pastels and other single-gene co-dom girls. If you already
have a solid base of single-gene breeder females you need to upgrade them to
multi-gene girls. And as soon as that upgrade is complete you will need
to begin to do it again. You cannot maintain profitability in a market as
volatile as the ball python trade without constantly upgrading. It, like
the different combinations of morphs that can be produced, is endless.
Be mindful of the size of your collection as you go through this
process. The desire to keep the old while adding the new can quickly lead
to an excessively large collection. Big collections come with big caging
bills, even bigger rodent bills and endless maintenance requirements. The
key here is to constantly increase the quality of the collection, not its
size. As one girl comes of age she should be moving into, not next
to, the slot of another girl. Don’t get me wrong,
though. If you want to grow your collection, do so. But know how it
is growing. Collections in growth-mode need to grow in size and quality
simultaneously. Don’t keep older, less valuable, animals into
infinity. A $100 female breeder eats just as much as a $1,000 female
breeder, requires the same amount of time to care for and generally produces
animals that are worth significantly less. A person who is breeding ten
$1,000 females is going to make as much or more money with less effort and less
overhead than the person breeding fifty $100 normal females.
2.0 Males
Keep
multiple males of the same morph. 2.0 Pastel Genetic Stripes, 2.0 Pieds,
2.0 Pastel Lessers and 2.0 Honey Bees. Not all males are good breeders
and not all females are receptive to any male. If you want to maximize
the percentage of females that lay viable eggs each season you need to make
sure they have as many opportunities as possible to be with a male.
Rotating at least two males of the same morph with each female will do
this. Yes, it is more expensive and no, it is not as exciting as having a
bunch male morph diversity. But this isn’t about having the prettiest
collection; it’s about having the most productive collection possible.
The addition of a second male should easily pay for itself in the form of a
higher rate of oviposition. If the addition of another male can increase
the number of females who produce each season by 10% he will pay for himself
(and then some) in one year.
How
many people ever see your collection anyway? I can still count on two
hands the number of people who have actually been to my facility over the past
few years. Would you rather “ooh and aah” over your snake rack or
your bank account? Pick one and then act accordingly. Very few of
us can do both.
The One Who Dies with the Largest Ball Python Collection
Does Not Win
Quality
versus quantity. Consider a tale of two breeders; one hatches 2,000 ball
pythons each season with prices ranging from $8 – $10,000. The other
breeder hatches 300 babies with most prices ranging in the $500-$5,000 and up
range. Both are making money, no doubt. But the guy with 2,000 baby
snakes is busting his butt every day, has a crew of people helping him and has
massive overhead. The guy producing a comparative handful of snakes is
doing it on his own, mostly in the evenings. He enjoys spending time with
his animals and has paid his house off over the past five years. Both
paths are a way to make money but one is a harder life. The decidedly
American mentality that “more is better” is tough to shake; it’s everywhere
around us every day. A smaller, higher-end collection is worth a lot more
in time spent and overall quality of life. But that is just an opinion,
not a fact.
Never Breed Recessives a Year After Dominant/Co-Dominants
If you
breed a dominant/co-dominant male to a female in one breeding you should avoid
breeding that female to a simple recessive carrying male in the following
season. If you do there is a chance, albeit a small one, that the babies
might not be the hets you think them to be. Ball pythons can and do
retain sperm across breeding seasons. No, it is not terribly common (I
believe it to be very rare) but I know more than one breeder who has witnessed
it. I have produced many thousands of ball pythons and have not had it
happen …that I know of. But one thing I am powerfully motivated to never
do is sell someone a het and have it not prove out. For that reason I am
careful in pairings not only within the same breeding season, but also from one
breeding season to the next. In order to to this you must keep excellent
records. Consider the following pairings:
Pairing
#1: Risky and too stressful for me
§ Year 1:
Pastel female x Pinstripe male – Possible offspring includes pastels,
pinstripes, lemon blasts and normals. None are het for anything.
§
Year 2: Pastel female x Ghost Pinstripe male – Possible
offspring includes pastels, pinstripes, lemon blasts and normals. All should be 100% het ghost. But what if the
female had some retained sperm from the previous season? You are certain
the production is 100% het but it may not be …and there is no way to tell until
years down the road when your customer experiences the fallout from the
mistake. There was no deception on your part but the mistake is still
your responsibility and, with your reputation on the line, your problem
to correct.
Pairing
#2: A slightly safer bet
§ Year 1:
Pastel female x Pinstripe male – Possible offspring includes
pastels, pinstripes, lemon blasts and normals. None are het for anything.
§ Year 2:
Pastel female x Ghost Mojave male – This is a slightly more bearable
situation. The best things to produce from this pairing are mojaves and
pastel mojaves, which have no choice but to be 100% het ghost. The
pastels and normals that result from the pairing are almost certainly 100% het
ghost but you can only be 99.5% sure. There is an outside chance that the
pastels and normals are from the previous season’s pairing. If I were to
do a pairing like this I would sell the normals and the pastels as “normals”,
not hets. Yes, they are more than likely going to be actual hets but I
would not want deal with the fallout several years down the line if they
weren’t.
Pairing
#3: Warm and fuzzy feelings for everyone
§ Year 1:
Pastel female x Ghost Pinstripe male – Possible offspring includes
pastels, pinstripes, lemon blasts and normals. All are 100% het for
ghost.
§ Year 2:
Pastel female x Black Pewter male – Possible offspring includes silver
streaks, black pewters, super pastels, pastels, black pastels and normals.
None should be het for ghost but it is remotely possible that the pastels
and the normals are actually hets. It should go without saying that you
cannot sell them as such. They are sold as the normal, non-het, animals
you suspect them to be. The worst case scenarios is that they are
actually carrying the ghost gene and someone gets a happy surprise several
years down the road.
Second-Hand Hets are Not a Good Bet
Buying hets is risky business. The simple fact of the
matter is that you have to buy hets either from A) someone you know and trust
or B) someone who has a verifiable and trustworthy reputation. The
operative word in both options is ‘trust’. Over the years I have
had a few bad experiences and I know plenty of other people who have lived
through the pain of an animal not proving out. Because of the time
involved it’s really depressing. Buy a lottery ticket and you’ll know in
short order if it’s a loser; buy a het and it can take years to realize that
you won’t be getting a return on your investment. Adding insult to injury
is that the het is supposed to be a winner. At least with a lottery
ticket you know you’re taking a chance and could come up empty-handed. I
have written at length about the danger of buying hets. Rather than
beating that horse any further let me refer you to the article called Genetic
Provenance, Insanity and Spoiled Milk (http://wp1040.hostgator.com/~wabqz20aa5pe/2010/11/genetic-provenance-insanity-and-spoiled-milk/)
that I wrote on the topic.
The
article referenced above deals mostly with buying hets directly from the person
who has (supposedly) produced it. But what about buying hets from the
person who bought the hets? I guarantee my hets and I am willing to
guarantee hets that I have purchased from others that have proven for me.
But I won’t guarantee or knowingly buy a het that passed through more than one
person’s collection. The only hets I am ever willing to buy are one’s the
come from the person who produced them. At least that way there is a
measure of accountability. If you buy your hets from a wholesaler you
need to be at peace with the fact that they are selling them to you under the
assumption that the person from whom they bought them wasn’t ripping them
off. Graft in the het business rolls down hill and if it’s you putting
male to female it’s you and only you who is going to come out the loser when
the het doesn’t prove out.
Avoid Sweet Deals on Other People’s Problems
You simply must exercise Due Care and Due Diligence when buying
adult ball pythons. I have written on this before. Please read my
article titled Sweet
Deals on Other People Problems (http://wp1040.hostgator.com/~wabqz20aa5pe/2009/12/sweet-deals-on-other-peoples-problems/)
for a detailed discussion on this topic.
Cover Your Assets
Whenever I sell hets I include a Certificate
of Genetics that
includes a photograph of the animal and describes the genetics it
carries. I also include information on the pairing that was used to
produce the animal. I do this to give my customer a high degree of
assurance that the animal is what I claim it to be. I will not last long
in this business if I sell fake hets (which I call “Fets”). My
willingness to sign a document that holds me personally accountable for an
animals’ genetics goes a long way to helping people feel better about their
purchase. But I don’t do certificates just for my customer; I do them to
protect myself as well. If I sell a het and years later the person comes
to me complaining that it didn’t prove out I have no real defense if there is
no photographic record of the animal. How do I know that the animal they
are claiming didn’t prove out was really from me? I don’t. This
would be a delicate situation and I would like to avoid it. I do that by
making sure that I also have a photographic record of the animal being sold.
Happy
Breeding!
Cheers,
Colin
Weaver
